Common Problems Found When Rebuilding the Meyer E-60
Hopefully what goes in this section will help you understand more about your Meyer E-60 snow plow pump. If you are rebuilding your Meyer E-60 hydraulic unit, you may come across situations that you think are unusual, but in reality, they are not. This section will have "common" things we find, and also some not so common, which we will tell you are not so common or just plain weird! We already have 4 pages worth for Meyer E-47 Common Problems, and some of it applies to the E-60 too (because they share the same PA Block and Top Cap), so you might want to check out those pages as well.
We often get units in that were "rebuilt" and the plow will not raise or move. The above is a typical problem when someone without the knowledge of the unit, OR knowledge but fear, did the so called "rebuild". With a little knowledge, changing the above O Ring is not difficult. having the Special Tool makes it very easy to do. Just take your time. We even uploaded a video to YouTube to help. The above O Ring seals the back of the Gear Pump to the Pump Mounting Plate. ALL pressurized fluid leaving the Gear Pump flows through this port, and if it is not sealed, the unit will not make any pressure. So even though your friend "changed all the seals" if he does not change this one, the unit will not work. We call this the "fat" O Ring because the O Ring itself is thicker than all the others in the E-60 Basic Seal Kit. It is a round O Ring but you just squeeze it a little and it fits right in the oval depression in the back of the Gear Pump.
We have come across this dozens of times. It is even in our rebuilding a Meyer E-60 videos we uploaded to YouTube. You try everything you can think of to get the motor off your E-60 after removing the two screws, and it will not come off. In your efforts, you end up pulling the motor case off and you are left with this. You will need to take a chisel and work your way around the top half of the motor end plate. It will come off. You may take a few chips out of the soft aluminum end plate, but that is OK. Just have a helper hold it, or figure out a way to stop it from hitting the floor when it does break loose. :)
We have come across this a few times, in fact I have a plow in the shop right now, and I know that it is seized, but that is not why it is here so I am not going to mess with it. This E-60 has a bolt stuck in it. The customer cut off both sides, and sent the unit in for rebuild. I knew what was going on, and that I had a very high chance of removing what was left of the bolt before he sent it in. I know many trucks sold around 2006 with Meyer plows on them, that were installed by ABC (America's Body Company who was bought by Reading a few years ago), had a problem. It seems they installed the plows, and as a bonus, they installed a pump lock instead of a bolt in the bottom of the hydraulic unit. It is basically the same as a trailer hitch lock. It is a hardened pin with a lock on one end. The problem was, the owner was not provided with a key for the lock!! Either it got lost, or the truck dealer did not provide it to them, or ABC never provided it to the truck dealer. It was never really noticed until it was too late. Typically after the plow was 4 or 5 years old. By that point galvanic corrosion set in, and the pin became seized in the hole in the aluminum Sump Base. The only way to remove the hydraulic unit from the Lift Frame was to cut the hardened pin on each side, and then try to get it out. I am sure MANY Sump Bases were replaced because someone could not get the pin out. My Brother was actually a victim with his 06 GMC 2500HD. It came with a Meyer EZ Plus mount C-8 plow on it from ABC. Needless to say, I got the piece of pin out, just like I got the piece of bolt out of the above unit.
What is the secret to getting the piece out? Use a large driver. A punch is not going to do it, and it can actually make it even harder if you keep beating on it with a small punch, it is going to expand the piece even more. I always use a 1/2" bolt to try and get it to move, and a BFH. You have to support the bottom side, and an impact socket works well for that. Much like driving out U Joint bearing caps. Once you get the piece to move, it is coming out. Use blocks of wood, whatever to get it to sit with the bottom supported, and a socket to "receive " the piece of bolt or pin. This portion of the unit is hollow and not very thick cast aluminum, so if you do not hit squarely, and it is not supported properly, you can easily crack it off. So do it carefully if you have this problem. Take your time, it is not a race. How can you prevent it from happening again, or happening at all? See below.
Install a grease fitting. Then you can keep it greased. I did it to mine, and a few others, including the one above. It took 5 minutes and I grease it once a year when I put my plow away for the summer.
Next we have a bad ground. Why is it a bad ground? Because if you go to loosen the bolt, and it is so corroded the head snaps off, there is no way it can be a "clean tight" ground. IF it snapped off, it has not been removed in years, and maybe never since the plow was new. Remember at least 90% of electrical problems are due to bad grounds. When it comes to the E-60 pulling around 200 amps about 1,000 times in a snow storm, grounds are VERY important. When that ground is sitting in a salt bath, corrosion is multiplied faster.
Since the Coils are also in the previous picture, why not point out the correct way to avoid sharp bends and route the Coil wires? Don't have OCD and do weird things to make all the Coil wires the same length. You might unplug them once a year if you remove your hydraulic unit, if not, it might be many years, so why does it matter? Half the units that come in with the wires the same length, and the wires broke when they come out of each Coil look like they were picked up at the junkyard and then dropped off here. It's the old why put lipstick on a pig.... Standard procedure (best practices) is do not make a bend when routing a wire that the radius is less than 5X the diameter of the wire. In English, avoid sharp bends.
Not So Common Problems
Over the next few pages, like this one, we will also add things we find that are not so common, but deserve a mention.
While finding a leaking Pump Shaft Seal is not uncommon due to age, (or a unit not being updated per the one Meyer Service Bulletin many years ago about a spacer on the Pump Shaft) this one deseves a mention. It was not brought in for a leak, it was just in for a rebuild.
Here is why it was leaking. It does not look very old, but it was installed by someone without the knowledge of how to properly install it (or they just did not care). Based on the color (bare metal / silver) it is also an aftermarket part. Genuine Meyer has a coating on the outside to help seal when you install it. Standard practice is if a seal does not have the coating, you must put a thin film of silicone on the outside of the seal before installing it. I know some who even put that thin film on coated seals before installing them. The second mistake (or just plain lazy) is that it is installed crooked.
This is a weird one. I have never seen this before. Someone who "rebuilt" this unit, thought the Lift Ram Packing Washer, belonged on top of the Lift Cylinder instead of the 15198 that belongs there. I think part of the problem is that it was an H Model, and because the same E-60 Basic Seal Kit fits both the E-60 and E-60H, it includes the Packing Washer used by the E-60, AND the Packing Cup used by the E-60H. Since the Packing Cup was installed on the Lift Ram, they had the Packing Washer left over and installed it here (is my guess). This goes back to the whole "lack of knowledge" problem.
MUCH MORE to come as time allows!
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